1) The PO painted the black color plastic scoops a glossy black.If ns can, I desire to piece it off and also return them to their factory flat (or semi-gloss) black color without wrecking them.What"s best to use? (If I have to, I"ll just source some brand-new scoops, however I figured the couldn"t ache to shot and conserve them - and I could learn miscellaneous in the process.)2) The PO additionally got part red overspray on part black rubber trim piece (rubber around markers, rubber at behind window) throughout a cheap paint job.What"s ideal to use to remove repaint from black color rubber trim without wrecking that (if possible)?3) and also lastly (oh glorious PO), the PO painted all the stainless stole trim (windshield bezel, horizontal door home window rails, horizontal targa trim) level (or semi-gloss) black, which wouldn"t have to be bad, other than that the did a crappy job of prepping (roughing/priming) the surface, for this reason it"s wearing off.How carry out I finest strip the black repaint off the stainless pieces without wrecking them?4) The car is a hard red 86. I"m about to have it fully repainted at the shop (probably come the initial PPG 886 or similar primary, rosso corsa, etc) after some body repairs. I have stripped every one of the trim myself to save money. The shop owner has been great. He"s permit me come over there to strip/prep it while they"re law the body repairs.I"m considering repainting all the stainless trim level (or semi-gloss) black again, to gain that contempt more contemporary red/black motif, which ns like. (It"s one 86, therefore the rear window bezel, the outer door handles, and the upright side window strips are currently black anyway. I would just need to re-do the horizontal door trim, the windshield bezel, and also horizontal the targa trim.)If i DO choose to walk all black color trim instead of keeping the freshly uncovered factory stainless, how do I correctly sand/prep the stainless come prepare it because that a great permanent black repaint job that will certainly stick? and also what primer (if any) and also black paint need to I use on it? Feel totally free to be very particular (step by step) down to the details top top this one. Anyone who has done this successfully, I"d really favor to hear specifically how, therefore I have the right to do the right.Thank you paint X-perts! Look forward to hearing native you!And i REALLY look front to lastly sharing my face-lifted 86 with you all. Hopefully no much much longer now..

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(I accidentally post this an initial in "discussion".)Moving it right here for properness and posterity.Got two great responses over there so far, as adheres to (see next two replies):
Anthony who?
Black-Tooth Tony Natoli join Date: jan 2008Location: Santa Clarita California------------------------------I have actually ONE word for you...DUPLICOLORUse TRIM black on all hard surfaces because that a manufacturing facility like SATIN black color finish and also use their VINYL & cloth spray for all fabric, vinyl and flexible rubber areas.For the next scoops and also the like... Lightly sand the old color and then spray through Trim Black. For the SS parts... Use a bucket and LACQUER THINNER... Soak and then brush & wipe away old paint.To repaint SS trim... Stormy up v 3M Scotchbrite pads and very first decide if you like the level GRAINED watch of Aluminum and also if not, paint with Trim black for a manufacturing facility look.__________________My best,Tony"Black-Tooth and me due to the fact that 1983"
For the rubber.
TonyK True standard Join Date: Oct 2008Location: Grimsby Ont Canada------------------------------------Use Tal Strip, paint stripper. It will soften the paint and clean the rubber ago to it"s black colour. You can use that on steel trim and some plastic to eliminate the old paint.TonyK.Grimsby Ontario Canada.
What is this, some kinda Tony party?!
What a Fiat cliché! say thanks to you because that the great info, 2 Tony"s.Love, 3rd Tony

Stainless steel, i would usage fine stole wool.Rubber, brand-new razor blade and scrape the off. Ns spent hours doing this come the rubber top top the Otas. It normally flakes ideal off.

Try the basic stuff first
Apologies if this had been pointed out but an initial try "goof off" and/or 3M repaint buffing compound on the plastic and also rubber. Over there is additionally a repaint remover product at Hobby Shops for plastic models draft to save from ruining the plastic - because that botched paint jobs. I would soak the stainless components in lacquer thinner. Simply keep the immersed or keep going over it through a brush with thinner until it washes away. If it is a urethane repaint than the Talstrip is probably the ideal stuff. Great luck.
Never tried that myself,
But I know that because that plastic models, brake fluid is recommended to remove repaint without damaging the plastic. Simply make certain that you have actually the kind of brake liquid that warns against contact with painted surfaces.
I love your shade choices!!
I to be doing the really same scheme on my X. It also is one 86. I obtained it v the red and also black, but it all needs to be redone. I have actually wondered around powdercoating the windshield and also rear trim. Therefore if anyone has actually opinions on that please include them. Together for repaint removal, i LOVE utilizing the Goof Off together mentioned above and Eastman"s Pre paint prep spray. Ns really love Goof turn off on rubber items. The seams to no only acquire the paint off but likewise seem to refurbish to, or in ~ least acquire things really cleaned up (paint, dirt, oxidation, wax, etc.) when you acquire done put pics up because that sure!! and thanks to all that have added to this article since I have had countless the same questions! good luck through your painting!
Thank you males for all the good tips!
If anyone come along and also has an ext insight to add, please feeling free.Very educational/helpful.I think i will start with Goof off or the understand shop stuff first for the breakable soft rubber parts, and also lacquer thinner for the tough plastic and also stainless, before moving on come stronger repaint strippers. Couldn"t hurt come err ~ above the next of gentler first, right?Will split this right into two steps -- will emphasis on obtaining things stripped and cleaned off first, climate will view what I"m left with before resurfacing/repainting.Thanks again! :worship:

Oven cleaner
I have actually heard that hobbyists use range cleaner come strip paint from styrene plastic models. Styrene is (as plastic go) pretty breakable stuff; so the should definitely be safe on the next scoops and also rubber. If it was rattlecan paint, lacquer thinner will occupational like a charm on the rubber, yet of course don"t usage that top top the plastic.Overspray from painting the car should it is in 2K (paint + hardener) paint and neither the lacquer thinner nor the stove cleaner is walk to carry out a many -but it might be enough.If it"s thick sufficient on the rubber you have the right to crack the off small by little. If it"s thin enough the lacquer thinner might be sufficient.For the SS trim: if you desire the black color out look, get rid of it, wherein you can.During mine repaint, I changed my windshield gasket v one that doesn"t have actually the trim; for this reason that"s blacked out. The panels ~ above the A pillars, I just removed. Ns could constantly put castle back, yet I"m not sure why they were there; I"ve pushed in the rain since and also haven"t to let go them.The remainder of the SS trim I covered with blackout tape. These were likewise made in black color from the factory, if girlfriend can gain them; but the blackout tape functioned fine, that looks great.The blackout tape is rather stretchy, so that does a good job approximately curves and stuff. Because that the targa bar trim i was able to acquire a set of the manufacturing facility black pieces.It"s often challenging to store a weather-exposed painted satin black finish in great condition. 2K finishes are much more durable, but on little items (like wiper arms) sometimes the convenience the rattlecan repaint makes that easy sufficient to simply keep refinishing it.I"ve been pretty happy with Eastwood"s Chassis Black.
Thanks Wyverndude! advantageous clarifications and good alternative suggestions.
The paint overspray on the side marker rubber is quite thin, so perhaps some stove cleaner will execute the trick. I favor the idea of making use of hobbyist stuff that is offered on vulnerable plastic models as a jumping turn off point.The scoops have actually a pretty special layer of cheap looking black color glossy paint on them. So there will be much more to eliminate there.I"ve read mixed things around using lacquer thinner on the tough plastic. Some, favor you, to speak NO, and other speak yes, yet don"t leave it on too long, and also clean the component thoroughly through soap and also water after the repaint is removed.It hadn"t emerged to me to remove the trim in spots. Amazing suggestion, specifically considering your observation that trim paint doesn"t host up specifically well end time.Certainly would be a cleaner, an ext elegant, perhaps more permanent solution to discover whatever trim piece I could in manufacturing facility black. Didn"t even know the targa trim pieces came in black. 87 perhaps?I"m curious to understand what the X looks choose without the windshield trim, and also the A pillar panels. Got any type of pics? My body shop male is a little hesitant to pull the windshield for are afraid of cracking it (he thinks the old ones space vulnerable and it definitely may be hard to find one more one), yet I"m considering pulling it because that the paint job.All that would certainly be left climate is the door window (horizontal) stainless trim. For this reason you choose black the end tape because that that, huh? ns imagine myself struggling v it and not getting it come lay right/look good, but you give the impression that a good result. Hmm..
Weight save of removing A-panel trim pieces..
6 oz ?WooHOOOOO!!!FINALLY, the defining edge thats gonna make my stock 86 go 0-60 in under 6 seconds.:excited:BONUS: removed windshield trim; 1lb?; = 0-60, 5.5 seconds for sure.
laquer diluent "the automotive stuff" ~ above the stainless stuff and also rubber parts. Carefull if the rubber is dryrot the thinner will eat right into it.. Dont usage thinner top top the plastic parts, it will eat castle up. The vents were probly effected by dryrot. A coat of krylon will certainly stick favor glue..a semigloss will look an extremely much favor the original surface.. I additionally see castle in great shape cheap ~ above ebay fairly often. I typically take the stainless stuff turn off the car so I have the right to use a really wet rag of laquer ~ above them without worrying about getting any type of on the paintwork. Scrape your home windows while her at the , over there is most likely oversparay almost everywhere the glass as well. the longer the paint has actually been on over there the longer it will certainly take to remove it.. Take your time.
The "removing paint from RUBBER" list.
Between tip here and searching the web, here"s what I"ve got.MIND YOU, THIS IS not A guarantee LIST! some of THESE space ANECDOTAL in ~ BEST. Shot AT YOUR very own RISK!! and RESEARCH prior to DIVING IN!!It"s rather a list:Brake fluidOven cleanerBumper stripperGoof OffGo GoneMr Clean Magic Eraser3M Remover3M buffing compoundMotsenbocker"s elevator OffHobby shop plastic model paint removerWD-40Fast orangeGoJoDO no USE:Vaseline (or petroleum based substances) (will rot the rubber)I likewise get the impression the lacquer thinner and also paint stripper space too harsh to start with, specifically on fragile aging rubber. Shot the over first. Again we"re talking RUBBER for this list, no plastic or stainless.Corrections? Additions?
The "removing paint from STAINLESS STEEL" list.

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Fortunately a Google search of "removing paint from stainless steel" will administer a wealth of info, since people frequently want to clean and remove stains from their stainless steel household appliances, sinks, etc.Pretty much any kind of solvent (without chlorides!) will certainly remove paint from stainless there is no damaging it. DON"T gain THIS stuff ON YOU great CAR PAINT!! Obviously, it"s much better if the trim is off the automobile when you carry out it. And make certain the trim is 100% clean of solvent before putting it back!Some choices (all have to be followed by a thorough rinse):MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)Mineral SpiritsLacquer thinnerTurpentine (seems to be the most typical suggestion for family use)Paint Stripper (Tal Strip, for one) (this is a stronger option, might not it is in necessary)Here"s a an excellent link:http://www.metalresources.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=132&Itemid=101Corrections? Additions?
The "removing paint from PLASTIC" list.
Consensus is, normally you want to start with other mild and gradually relocate to miscellaneous harsher together needed, so as not to damages the surface ar of the plastic.Listed much more or much less mild come harsh:Vegetable oilSoap and also waterRubbing alcoholPinesol OrangeLinseed OilSimple GreenScale master (plastic model paint remover)Chameleon (plastic model paint remover)Bumper stipperGoof OffGoo GoneBrake FluidPaint diluent (careful, deserve to remove color/affect surface)Lacquer diluent (careful, most likely WILL eliminate color/affect surface)DO not USE steel paint strippers. Probably too harsh.Still functioning on this one.. To it is in edited..Corrections? Additions?

Blackout pics every request
Mine is a 1981, that was all bright trim indigenous the factory.Here"s 2 shots of the windshield rubber (aftermarket) and also showing the targa drip rail, wing home window rail, and home window scraper trim, as extended with the blackout tape. This additionally shows the A-pillar there is no the "drip rail/gutter" thing.
Your paint male only has to worry around cracking the windshield if he"s make the efforts to conserve the windshield gasket. If you"re going come be instead of the gasket anyway, you have the right to just reduced it. Then run a wire roughly it, and it should be pretty straightforward to gain it out.I would recommend acquisition the windshield out, if you"re thinking about it. Most X1/9"s I"ve seen have actually rust about the windshield frame. Also if you don"t view any. Those who know much more about it 보다 me may recognize whether they got that addressed by 1986 when yours was built.If you can acquire a new windshield, it sure is nice!
Thank you because that the pics, Wyverndude!
Trim work-related looks really clean.Car watch great. (Nice customized winter too!) friend should post pics that the whole treatment for every to enjoy, if friend haven"t already. (Maybe in the "Official Member Car picture Thread" in discussions?)So the Targa drip rail you were able to uncover in manufacturing facility black? execute you happen to psychic the source?And no rain leaks there is no the A-pillar drip rail, huh? Wonder if it would organize up in a heavy downpour..The vertical wing home window rail top top mine is currently black (86). Is yours manufacturing facility black as well (replaced on her 81), or is that black-out tape?And finally, the black-out ice on the horizontal window scraper rail looks amazingly smooth and neat. An excellent job! that looks choose an increasingly attractive option..Btw.. Many thanks for providing me a vocabulary/names because that these things. Haha. I finally have a feeling of just how to reference them.You"re most likely right about leaning in the direction of taking the windshield the end if I"m repainting the totality car. Though it"s a rust totally free CA 86, I know if there is any type of corrosion, that"s likely to be a vulnerable spot. I will look right into either bespeak a brand-new gasket because that the original windshield trim rail (if available), or ordering an aftermarket gasket prefer yours. Again, if friend remember any kind of info around your source, you re welcome let me know.My automobile is a red 86 (I think repaint code 886, however the sticker has actually been removed). I want to either redo it together close come the original code together I can get (may be slightly towards orange), or another an extremely primary red (Rosso Corsa perhaps) for this reason it will certainly in fact finish up looking much like yours, v the simple, slightly modernized red through all black trim scheme. What shade code go you end up going through for yours? and it a 2 or 3 phase job?Thanks for the great info!
Now we"re in my wheelhouse! most of united state Model men use EASY-OFF oven cleaner, once we botch a paint job. :sleep:It has to be the Yellow Can, "stinky" stuff. The Blue can, "Less Fumes" version, doesn"t work-related as well. I"ve taken turn off a height coat, back down come the primer, making use of a toothbrush in the detail areas, washed that off with DAWN dishwashing detergent and also had challenge winning results. Because that the many part, I provided standard Rattle have the right to Auto Primers before I Airbrushed on the final color coats,using every little thing from Testor"s design Paints come Lacquer Fingernail Polish, just to obtain the colors "right". The simple Off functioned on everything, there is no disturbing the primer underneath. Here"s a model I built of my 74 "X", after I included the "Lone Ranger" mask and stripes.
several of us "Champion" model builders may invest MONTHS on one model. I"ve got a B-17 Bomber ns "started" two decades ago the isn"t perfect yet and I invested 18 months, "Wrecking" this NASCAR Lumina," just right. That won an ext Hobby contest than DW winner races, in the real car.:wink2: