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You are watching: Dodge ram 1500 4.7 coolant capacity

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I haven"t been on the forum a lot of lately but my water pump started leaking from the gasket (not the weep hole/bearing) the other day pretty bad so I believed I"d perform a fast write up because that anyone who needs it. Be certain to monitor the organization manual steps, but listed below is how I walk the job:1.Remove reduced fan shroud (it simply unclips). When laying under the truck, traction apart the splash shield indigenous the upper fan shroud, it’s simply three press clips.2.Unbolt top fan shroud (2 bolts near the top on each side that the radiator).3.Unscrew clutch pan from water pump tower (I supplied a large crescent wrench v a rag stuffed in between the pulley and also belt). The 4.7L is continual threaded, lefty loosy. Some human being have problems with this step, ns did no as I’ve had my fan off before (although, the was never very challenging on mine). Other approaches for removal encompass a spanner wrench to hold the pulley, clamping the water pump wheel with evil grips, or difficult a screwdriver with a hole in the pulley. Once the fan is unscrewed it’s easiest to fall it out the bottom that the vehicle, yet it is feasible to shimmy it out the top.4.Lift and remove the upper fan shroud native the vehicle5.PRIOR come REMOVING RADIATOR CAP: Locate and open the radiator drainpipe petcock. The on the driver side of the radiator on the bottom. The an allen head, it simply takes about 1 revolve or so. Continual threaded, lefty loosy. You will do it feel when it’s open as it will certainly protrude out around 1” and fluid will be draining! Be sure to have a drainpipe pan underneath to record the fluid. This action (with the mechanism sealed up) sucks and drains the liquid out that the reservoir.6.Once draining stops, open radiator cap to drainpipe the rest of the device (as much as will gravity drain).7.Remove the two bolts from thermostat housing (lower passenger side of engine). This will drainpipe most that the continuing to be coolant. Also, eliminate thermostat (note orientation for later use), however replace the gasket and reinstall the housing.8.This next part is optional, however I like to perform it:If she water pump is damaged in a means that the shouldn’t run (bearing failure, wobbling, etc) replace it currently (see step 12 below), otherwise, I favor to do the washing up the system with the old pump prior to installing the new pump.a.With radiator drainpipe open, and radiator lid off, put a hose into the peak of the radiator and also fill the cooling system with water. Adjust the water flow to very minimal, just so the will add as lot water as is draining out. Placed the heater control to HOT, and also the pan on (not sure this matters, or what speed, however won’t pains to placed on high), and the vent selector on floor (again, not certain this matters).b.Start engine and also run for ~10 minutes. Ns waited until it got around 130 deg F. Ns then left the hose in the radiator and also the radiator draining for around another 10 minutes to save flushing the system and also to let the engine cool down a bit before I drained all the water.9.Next you want to backflush the engine and the radiator (you can say this step is optional, but it should always be done):a.Radiator: Disconnect the reduced radiator water tap from the thermostat housing and stick a garden hose right into the radiator hose. Tape it increase real good to “Seal” it up. Disconnect the top radiator hose from the engine and turn water on at a low pressure. Nothing overpressurize the system (~14psi) together it could reason damage. I moved the top use down so every the water didn’t get almost everywhere the engine bay, you might even ice a “drain” hose on if you desire to. I left the radiator drain open, doesn’t issue either way though.b.Engine: (Very vital to have the heater turn off so you nothing backflush scale/grime/etc into the heater core). Reattach the upper radiator water tap to the engine and disconnect native the radiator. Insert water hose here. Reattach the reduced radiator hose to the thermostat housing and also disconnect from the radiator. Do the washing up for a couple of minutes.10.Take the stress off the belt tensioner and remove the belt (make keep in mind the belt routing for later use!)11.Unbolt idler wheel (pay fist to exactly how tight that is, together I don’t know the torque worth for reinstall).12.Unbolt/replace water pump if essential for her job. Ns cleaned the adjustment surfaces through fine brillo then rinsed off through water and wiped dry/clean through a rag. Water pump bolts are tightened in overcome pattern to 40 ftlbs. This was really tight. I provided anti seize and I think that lubricated the subject so i didn’t fairly go to 40 ftlbs, together I felt choose I to be going to piece the aluminum.13.Install new radiator hoses or old hoses if reusing them.14.Remove wait bleeder screw on height of engine close to upper radiator hose. This is another allen head. Mine to be crazy tight and also I was flexing the aluminum housing so i tapped the allen head v a hammer lightly a couple of times to “shock” it and also break the seal top top the threads. It then loosened easier.15.Reinstall idler pulley-block (I provided anti seize). Ns don’t recognize the torque because that the idler pulley yet don’t overdo it. Also, reinstall belt in ~ this time.16.Fill the entire cooling system with distilled water. Once it beginning coming out the wait bleed screw, reinstall the bleed screw. Continue filling till full. Reinstall radiator cap. Placed the heater ~ above again. Begin engine and also let run just a minute to circulate the water. Remove radiator lid (BE cautious that it’s not pressurized/hot, as you just ran the engine). Then drain through the radiator and also thermostat housing. This will certainly flush out many of the mineral you included by utilizing the hose water.17.Close radiator drain.18.Remove air bleed screw.19.Reinstall thermostat with brand-new gasket. Clean adjustment surfaces like did through water pump. Keep in mind thermostat need to go in the correct way, not backwards. Additionally note over there is a feet in the thermostat that permits a small bit the flow even when closed, and also this demands to heat up through a slot in the housing. Thermostat housing bolts torque to 115 inlbs (13 Nm). I offered anti seize.20.Fill entire cooling device with proper mix that mopar coolant and also distilled water. The coolant bottle mirrors you just how to achieve the proper mix. Complete capacity is ~14 qts ns believe. Ns poured in ~7 quarts that coolant and it to be full, so there was about 7 quarts the water quiet in the system. Again, when it starts coming out the waiting bleeder screw reinstall this screw, then proceed to fill until full and it stop going down in level in the radiator cap.21.Suck out any kind of fluid quiet in the overflow reservoir.

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Fill to “max” ~ above dipstick v 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled water.22.Start engine, run with a couple heat cycles (full operating temp to cool) through heater on, and top turn off the overflow reservoir between each cycle with 50/50 mix the coolant/distilled water.Check for leaks and monitor temps.Hope this helps! you can obtain this project done pretty fast if her really desire to, but mine was yes, really overdue for a flush so ns took extra time to backflush everything real well. Everything is easily accessible on the 4.7L, it"s a pretty directly forward job.